“In the past few years the designer has gone from an emerging talent to a fashion star that everyone wants. Right in the middle of Paris Fashion Week, the Haider Ackermann showroom is packed.
Ackermann with some of his looks for autumn-winter 2014 .
Ackermann’s name has often been bandied about in recent years, especially when there’s been an opening at a big fashion house. First it was rumoured that Martin Margiela asked him to take over his brand when he retired, then he was apparently up for a role at Givenchy. In 2010 Karl Lagerfeld famously told Numero magazine that Ackermann would be ideal successor for his job at Chanel. When Galliano was ousted from Dior, the press insisted that he had the job until it was announced that Raf Simons had taken the role.
From the outset, there was something beguiling in Ackermann’s languid draped silhouettes which featured an elegant yet edgy mix of sculpted leather jackets, trailing blouses and androgynous tailoring. You could sense wanderlust in his exotic shapes that brought to mind Japanese kimonos or robes worn by women in North Africa. Then there was his amazing sensitivity to colour with a palette that ranged from rich desert hues to vibrant jewel tones.
His collections are made all the more evocative thanks to his emotionally charged presentations. Ackermann composes his shows like a musician, often starting with a slow tempo before reaching a crescendo.
With the future holding so many possibilities, one wonders what sort of legacy the Ackermann is looking to leave behind with his work.”