Here’s Everything You Need to Know About Demna Gvasalia

by Highsnobiety

From sending Crocs down the runway at Paris Fashion Week to re-inventing IKEA’s classic FRAKTA bag, Georgian designer Dema Gvasalia has become a household name and unstoppable force in the fashion industry.





Demna Gvasalia’s postwar in the Nineties for Vetements’s SS19 Collection

Placing gut-wrenching memories aside, Demna Gvasalia ventured deep into his own personal memory bank with the aim of capturing the true spirit of his war-torn past. “I dedicated this collection to Georgia, the Georgia where my brother Guram and I grew up together in the ’90s, and the war that happened where we lived. I tried to face this angst and fear and pain in this show. I didn’t want to remember before, I didn’t want to go that far,” he expressed in speaking of the collection.

Feeling an overwhelming sense of empathy for those who share such a harrowing history, Gvasalia felt it only right to bring on street-cast Georgian models into the show. “They don’t smile” — a phrase the designer used to characterize his compatriot muses, as each took turns strutting down a wedding reception-esque catwalk that was staged in close proximity to the Boulevard Périphérique — an area of the capital where many displaced migrants sought refuge.

“I told my shrink that she should come and see the show because, for me, it would open doors to a lot of unanswered questions,” said Demna Gvasalia. After looking “the elephant in the room” in the face last season by going back to his designer roots and “to the [Martin] Margiela approach,” this season he had his homeland Georgia on his mind.

“Family and war,” said the designer, who had recently returned to his childhood home that was bombed out during the Georgian Civil War. Through the collection, he wanted to embark on some storytelling, he said, to face his fears “and painful moments that I never [processed] postwar in the Nineties.”

The “normal” clothes with gigantic proportions were based on the hoodies he wore as a kid, hand-me-downs from his cousins. His 80-year-old grandmother, who lost her hearing for weeks following the bombing, “and the immense amounts of shoulder pads she still uses,” were also an inspiration.”

“It’s a very different way of working for me as I always did shows that were mainly about clothes,” continued Gvasalia after the show, adding that the collection practically wrote itself — “going back to Georgia all the time.”

To model the looks, he brought more than almost 40 people from Georgia — kids who reminded him of himself when he first came to Europe, each embodying “a certain naïveté and the voice that they feel they don’t have in their own country.”

Hence the designer’s use of slogans, which he described as symbolizing “a voice for youth in repressed political regimes where they can’t demonstrate, they can’t say what they think, there’s no real freedom; I lived through that.” They included one that Gvasalia said was one of the most offensive expressions in the Russian language.

(via WWD)


International appointments

Vogue International announces editorial team updates

Vogue International has announced a number of changes to its team. Emily Zak has been appointed Head of Fashion Shows. She has previously worked at British Vogue for eight years as Executive Retail and Executive Fashion Editor and joined NET-A-PORTER in 2013 to help launch PORTER magazine. She previously worked in New York at Vanity Fair.


Alex Kessler and Lucy Maguire have also joined the fashion team as Fashion Shows Assistants. Alex was formerly at PORTER as Bookings & Picture Assistant whilst Lucy was Editorial Assistant to Suzy Menkes and in her new role will coordinate worldwide fashion shows coverage for 12 markets.

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Philippa Morgan, formerly Digital Editor at Vogue Arabia, has joined Vogue International as Planning Editor. Phoebe Shannon-Fagan has been appointed as Social & Video Editorial Assistant, working across both the social and video departments. Additionally, Luke Spencer has been hired as Senior Creative Video Editor whilst Jude Spour and Zuki Elliott have been named Senior Video Producers.

(via diary directory)


i-D’s (UK) nu appointments

i-D has announced the appointments of Carlos Nazario as Senior Fashion Editor and Ibrahim Kamara as Fashion Editor at Large in the UK. Carlos joins the team from Fantastic Man while Ibrahim is a recent Central Saint Martins College of Arts & Design graduate and freelancer. Both Carlos and Ibrahim will be building i-D’s creative output across print, digital and video in their new roles.

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H&M Changes

Observant online shoppers likely first noticed a shift in H&M sizing on April 30, 2018, which is when new numerical sizes launched on H&M’s e-commerce sites. Shoppers encountered new size options for items such as dresses, blouses, and pants; items in their carts automatically changed size, and their order histories were likewise revised.

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Jean sizing categorized by waist measurement, shoe sizing, kids’ sizing, and men’s sizing have not been affected by the change. And although bra cup sizing remains intact, bra band sizing has shifted by one standard deviation to more accurately reflect actual measurements. (For example, if your chest measures 34 inches around and you previously took a size 36DD at H&M, you now take the more accurate size 34DD.)

Affecting the US, UK, Ireland, Canada, Mexico, and Colombia, the move represents a colossal change for the Swedish apparel retailer currently ranked No. 2 worldwide (behind only Nike and superseding even Spanish fast-fashion powerhouse Zara).

The new hang tags are the first obvious clues shoppers will likely encounter, but they do little to indicate how much the recent sizing shift actually affects them, nor do they mitigate the complications that will inevitably come with it. The first phase of the change, which came in late 2017, went largely unnoticed. That’s when H&M shifted its XS–XXL sizing scale by one standard deviation — meaning if you wore a medium, you now wear a small — also adding XXS (reflecting the former measurements of XS) within Divided, a department that typically serves teens and younger customers. The second phase, confirmed by an H&M spokesperson, is set to encompass shifts in numbered sizing, and would soon equate a former size 12 with a current size 10, and a size 10 with an 8.

An H&M spokesperson said that the sizing changes were easier to make in simple jersey garments first, adding that they represent a response to years of customer feedback and requests.

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